In the winter of 1994, Barneys, a former high-end Manhattan department store, unveiled its Christmas windows featuring three hundred and nine original works by various artists to auction for local schools. One sculpture, 'Hello Kitty Nativity Scene,' created by then little-known sculptor Tom Sachs, sparked controversy among Catholic groups. The piece, made from colored duct tape, depicted Madonna as the Virgin Mary and drew public protests, leading to its removal and an apology from Barneys. This incident marked a significant moment in Sachs's career, establishing him as a provocative artist.
Recently, Sachs, now sixty, stood outside his SoHo studio, where he has worked for forty years, contemplating his latest project, '31 Rue Cambon.' This immersive installation, which opens to the public on September 11 during New York Fashion Week, replicates the luxury fashion house Chanel’s flagship boutique in Paris. Visitors will enter from the street, where Sachs and his team are recreating the Chanel storefront with cardboard awnings and wrought-iron gates featuring the brand’s logo. Inside, the installation includes a mirrored entrance and a showroom filled with handbags, shoes, and Chanel’s iconic suits, all crafted from everyday materials like cardboard and paper.
Sachs has a history of repurposing Chanel’s imagery to provoke thought; in 1998, he created a guillotine covered in Chanel logos to comment on cultural issues. His work is featured in major collections, including the Metropolitan Museum and the Museum of Modern Art. '31 Rue Cambon' represents a significant exploration of consumerism, coinciding with a resurgence of interest in Chanel, which reported a revenue increase of about sixteen percent in the first half of 2026.
Sachs noted that while the installation cannot be purchased from, its inaccessibility adds to its authenticity. He emphasized the labor involved in creating the pieces, which mimic Chanel’s designs using experimental techniques. For instance, a suit inspired by Coco Chanel’s designs took over ten days to create, using various tools to replicate textures.
The installation will feature thirty-one suits, inspired by celebrities like Naomi Campbell and Princess Diana. Each piece showcases intricate craftsmanship, with accessories designed to resemble classic Chanel items. Despite facing criticism for creating a challenging work environment, Sachs expressed pride in his team's dedication and the complexity of the installation. He clarified that the project is not directly about Chanel but rather an homage to the brand's influence.