Since the Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) came to power in West Bengal, beef has become increasingly scarce on menus as supplies diminish. In Kolkata's Tangra neighborhood, the only bovine slaughterhouse has been closed since May, leading to significant changes in local diets. Mohammad Mehmood Alam, manager of a roadside eatery, noted that the closure has left the area desolate, with schoolboys playing in the empty facility. He expressed doubt that the government would reopen the slaughterhouse soon.
On May 13, the West Bengal government issued a notice regarding bovine slaughter, shortly after the BJP's victory in the state legislature elections, which ended the 15-year rule of the Trinamool Congress (TMC). The notice enforces the West Bengal Animal Slaughter Control Act, 1950, which requires a certificate for slaughter that can only be issued under specific conditions. This has resulted in an acute shortage of beef, especially as the notice coincided with the Eid festival.
More than three months later, beef remains in short supply, with traders facing additional challenges due to the renewal of their licenses being stalled after the municipal corporation's dissolution in June. Mushtaq, a meat trader, reported that he has not earned any income for over three months due to the licensing issues.
Prices for beef have increased, with a plate of beef bhuna now costing 120 rupees ($1.25), up from 100 rupees ($1.04) before the restrictions. Despite the price increase, sales have dropped by about 50 percent, as customers are hesitant to order beef due to the current political climate.
West Bengal has historically been a significant consumer of beef, with government data indicating that 10.4 percent of rural households and 7.9 percent of urban homes consume beef or buffalo meat. The law regarding slaughter conditions is not new, but its enforcement has intensified since the BJP's rise to power.
Some business owners, like Alfaz Laiq, anticipated the crisis and adjusted their operations accordingly. Laiq sold his dairy business and shifted to goats, citing concerns over harassment from the government.
In the Muslim-majority neighborhood of Park Circus, beef shop owners report losses of 30-40 percent since May, with many shops shuttered for the first two months. The quality of available beef has also declined, prompting some restaurants to remove beef dishes from their menus entirely.
The uncertainty surrounding beef supply extends beyond Kolkata, affecting areas like Baruipur, where local markets run out of beef by mid-morning. Residents report a significant increase in food costs, with families spending more on food while their earnings remain stagnant.
In Malda, a district with a large Muslim population, beef is now sold through clandestine networks, with residents risking their safety to continue consuming it. The fear of repercussions for dealing with beef has grown, yet many find it difficult to abandon this staple of their diet.